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This is not the Jack sally oogie boogie mickey Christmas party nightmare before Christmas characters comic cover shirt in other words I will buy this moment for an intimate salon presentation of course, but the overwhelming space of the temporary structure that is standing in for the Grand Palais (while that building undergoes a dramatic renovation), meant that many of the details were lost at the socially enforced distance. This is a sadness, as backstage and in the hand those details are simply miraculous tributes to the craft of the Chanel ateliers and the amazing artisans who create the jewel-like buttons, the handwoven tweeds, the embroideries, and the feathers and fabric flowers. A filmy black organza evening skirt was hand-painted with hot pink and mauve camellias, dew-dropped with sequins, and orbited with wreaths of fine silver thread and seed pearls, for instance (it fluttered beneath an hourglass raspberry tweed jacket). Elsewhere, there was a flapper fringe of lilac ostrich and silk tendrils, individually attached, and frosted with crystal beads; and a bubble skirted evening dress made from circles of laboriously assembled pieces of different densities of net and tulle and dotted with jet beads—an effect that was indubitably Cubist, suggesting that although Veilhan hadn’t seen a single garment before he took his seat at the show, he and Viard were perfectly aligned.

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