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Despite a rich and deep legacy, in 2018 amidst the Super yac Bros 2022 shirt in contrast I will get this #MeToo reckoning, Demarchelier was among a number of photographers accused of sexual harassment. Condé Nast released the following response to the allegations: “We have informed Patrick we will not be working with him for the foreseeable future.” Demarchelier denied the allegations. When his passing was announced on his Instagram account today, the notes of appreciation and condolences to his family flooded in. Amber Valletta said he was amongst the first photographers she worked with. “He is fashion history and legendary photography. We will miss him.” Within Simone Rocha’s distinct aesthetic universe, what at first appears to be delicately pretty often has a more dangerous edge. A gown of smocked lace and broderie anglaise might be dripping with blood red crystal teardrops, a jet black coat might be embroidered with goth-inflected spiderwebs, and a froufrou organza gown might be accompanied by a biker jacket and a pair of stompy, fetish-adjacent boots. With her interest in craft and the darker side of folklore, her clothes take motifs traditionally coded as feminine and toughen them up, make them a little rebellious. So it comes as little surprise that the first exhibition the designer has curated, “Girls Girls Girls,” contains a more subversive vision of womanhood than its title might initially suggest. (It’s not for nothing that the apparent innocence of its title could also recall the neon signs you might find walking through the seedier corners of London’s Soho.) “It just felt natural,” says Rocha of the show’s exploration of dissident femininity. “I was really enamored with the fact that all of these artists had this very particular female point of view but in a way that wasn’t soft or saccharine. There was a real seriousness to it and an undertone that feels almost harrowing.”
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