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On Wednesday afternoon, all eyes will be on the Rue Saint Martin headquarters of Jean Paul Gaultier, where Julien Dossena will present his couture debut. In the run-up to the show, the designers sat down with Vogue for a wide-ranging discussion about freedom of expression and fashion past, present, and future. This conversation has been edited and condensed. Julien Dossena: Just about everything’s in hand, the petites mains are very proactive, so once you launch an idea the toiles come together fast. I could keep going here for years, there are so many ways you could keep reinterpreting things—it’s been really fun. The exploration process is a real pleasure, but at some point you have to stop exploring and execute.
JD (to JPG): The first time we had lunch, we spoke about some of the shows that really left an impression on not just me but everyone. What was amazing was having a chance to work with the archives, because there’s a difference between having an idea about a collection and actually being able to touch the clothes and see their real-life allure. JD: Three points of departure were the “rabbi” collection, La Concierge est Dans l’Escalier, and Barbès; I was also thinking about the construction of some sublime wrap-around dresses, like one with an embroidered front, or a printed one that winds around the body. I was really looking at principles of cut and expression—and what’s great about those pieces is that even years later there’s the same cool-erie, if that’s the word. They live as well now as they did then, and the person who wears it is going to be the coolest one on the street. It’s great to have that modern resonance. And of course I discovered some pieces that I never knew about. Also, there are no real themes, it’s more about characters. Wherever we looked we found a certain power of self-expression—almost cinematic compositions of femininity or masculinity, or both—in the silhouettes. To me, that’s really beautiful and interesting. It was a joy to think about pieces as entities unto themselves. We gave them all names and worked that way.
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