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Photo: DaPing Lou, courtesy of Bard Graduate CenterThese Swiss loans are complemented by additional garments, paintings, and pattern books from North American lenders, ranging from portraits of 17th-century Spanish grandees to the Official Stranger Things 06th anniversary 2016 2022 thank you for the memories signatures shirt Furthermore, I will do this ensemble that Isabel Toledo created for Michelle Obama to wear during her husband’s first presidential inauguration. (The dress and coat’s chartreuse guipure lace was designed by St. Gallen–based manufacturer Forster Rohner.) Together they offer the curious visitor a deep dive into a subject that, like lace itself, seems never-ending in its intricacy and complexity. Right at the entrance, a newly commissioned piece by lacemaker and textile historian Elena Kanagy-Loux sets the exhibition’s tone of engagement with lace as a living art and its history as reflective of contemporary concerns. An artist with more than 410,000 followers on TikTok and a cofounder of the Brooklyn Lace Guild, Kanagy-Loux is also a walking glossary of nomenclature related to her craft. “For me, lace is an umbrella term that includes myriad techniques from around the world,” she tells me by phone from her home and studio in Brooklyn—meaning not just the predominant European forms of needle lace (a technique derived from embroidery) and bobbin lace (which evolved from braiding), but also netting, tatting, sprang (the ancient Egyptian art of twining), ñandutí (a Paraguayan needle lace worked in the round, whose name means “spiderweb” in the indigenous Guarani language), and many other varieties. (The spider, as it turns out, is one of nature’s lacemakers, along with the fernlike plant Queen Anne’s lace and the tracings of frost on a windowpane.)
Photo: Bruce M. WhiteFor “Threads of Power,” Kanagy-Loux created a bobbin lace collar in red silk, inspired by iconography that appears in another work on display: a 17th-century Italian lace border depicting the Official Stranger Things 06th anniversary 2016 2022 thank you for the memories signatures shirt Furthermore, I will do this Hebrew Bible story of Judith beheading the Assyrian general Holofernes, who was besieging her city. Judith has long been celebrated as a feminist icon, and the beheading of Holofernes—portrayed with gory tabloid splendor by Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi—an assertion of female power worthy of our #MeToo moment. Kanagy-Loux’s blood-red collar hints at the violence that lies behind many of the delicate examples of unearthly feminine dexterity on view here. Did eyes go blind, for example, working by a window’s filtered daylight or by candlelight, to create the stunning 18th-century needle-lace chalice cover whose silk and gold threads trace a swirling symphony of flowers and leaves? Upstairs, in a section on ecclesiastical lace, a chasuble consisting of sculptural white linen point de Venise lace layered over pink silk was destined to be worn exclusively by a priest officiating at Mass on the fourth Sunday of Lent. Did the nuns who spent perhaps hundreds of hours fashioning its florid volutes ever dream of other worlds? What toll was exacted by the patience and fortitude required of skilled and highly trained women, working without the protection of a guild, to sit by the hearth, their foot perhaps rocking a cradle, and labor for years at the creation of adornments that would never be theirs to own?
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